By Frank Sabatini Jr.
The latest sushi buzz in Hillcrest
Raves are pouring in over Makai Sushi, which recently replaced the long-standing Wine Lover on Fifth Avenue near Washington Street. The quaint, narrow space was taken over by restaurateur Matthew Oliver and his business partner Mariela Torres.
Oliver is a native of Kauai and ran a similar sushi eatery on the island until COVID-19 hit. He later moved to San Diego and also owns The Funky Lemon cafe in Mission Beach.
Makai, he explained, is a term used in Hawaiian dialect that means “in the direction of the ocean.” At his new eatery, he sources much of his seafood from local purveyors and from fishermen at the Tuna Harbor Dockside Market downtown.
“We’re breaking down whole fish here,” he pointed out while showing off a newly installed kitchen equipped for doing so.
The menu is concise. It features a handful of ahi poke bowls and sushi rolls capturing the ahi, blue crab, salmon or fresh veggies only. Sushi burritos are also in the offing along with chef specials.
Oliver and Torres gave the property’s exterior and interior a refresh using a mostly white color scheme with a Pride flag draped over a kitchen ledge. A redesign of the adjacent outdoor patio is still underway. 3968 Fifth Ave., 619-339-7455.
‘Jungled Out’ Craft House opens in Fashion Valley Mall
Brothers Caesar and Jose Huerta have opened their second location of Craft House in San Diego, replacing the former Counter Burger on the ground level in Fashion Valley Mall. The eating and drinking establishment carries a similar Tulum (Mexico) jungle theme seen at their original location at Sky Deck in Del Mar Highlands Town Center.
The space features an 800-square-foot patio and a full bar that slings Mexican-inspired cocktails such as “tamarind painkillers” and “chocolate bliss martinis.”
Craft House’s credo is to use as many organic products from local artisans as possible.
Some of the menu items include Calabrian chili chicken wings, lobster rolls, short rib poutine, and grilled steaks.
The public is invited to the restaurant’s grand opening from 3 to 5 pm, Oct. 14. It will feature complimentary bites and cocktails. Those interested in attending must RSVP via email to [email protected]. 7007 Friars Road, Suite 347, 858-925-7067, crafthouseskydeck.com.
Bankers Hill newcomer
Did you hear about the new spot called Books & Records? Don’t worry, we also assumed the place had nothing to do with food and cocktails.
The restaurant was launched by the LGBT-friendly owners of Common Stock in Hillcrest, who have taken over the space previously occupied by Bankers Hill Bar + Restaurant. Yes, the décor incorporates shelving with books, a few records, and an old record player. But many of the standout architectural features, including a lengthy bar, paned windows and cobblestone flooring, were kept intact. The overall result inside the 2,200-square-foot restaurant is spacious and inviting.
A menu of upscale dishes complements crafty cocktails and live jazz music on select evenings. (Look for occasional performances by one of San Diego’s LGBT favorites, Sue Palmer.) 2202 Fourth Avenue, 619-795-1000, booksandrecordsbar.com.
What’s cookin’ in Lemon Grove?
Rarely do we see new restaurants emerge in Lemon Grove other than chains and fast-casual joints. But in the last month we’ve witnessed the arrival of Lemon Grove Bistro, located in a 1912 Mission-style building that long served as a community hub.
Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday, the independently owned bistro is sleek and stylish. It specializes in American-European food, such as burgers and meatloaf sandwiches, mushroom ravioli and spaghetti with meatballs, paella and Scottish salmon, and a noteworthy beef bourguignon according to a couple of our trusty sources. Craft beer on draft and wine are also available. 3308 Main St., 619-373-8650, grovebistro.com.
Mini review: Long Story Short
With an attention-getting name and dishes that are fiercely original in their flavor combinations, Long Story Short in the heart of North Park is off to a roaring start.
The restaurant is the brainchild of husband-wife duo Elliott and Kelly Townsend. Both worked as chefs in other restaurants, which included Juniper & Ivy for him, and Cowboy Star for her. They met some years ago at the Art Institute of California-San Diego where they each earned bachelor’s degrees in culinary management.
The restaurant’s concept relays the couple’s personal culinary adventures acquired from traveling as well as growing up in San Diego.
From their hyper-seasonal menu we reveled in juicy French melons from Chino Farms that paired exquisitely to stewed bell peppers (peperonata), lemon verbena, and a deep-orange puree of sweet Jimmy Nardello peppers.
Late-summer figs and diced radishes came into play for a chilled crudo using fresh yellow tail. And a generous order of charred carrots sourced from JR Organics in North County sang to curry butter and peanut salsa. Equally brilliant was the coffee-infused brown butter, bathing a filet of flaky halibut flanked by fingerling potatoes.
Across the menu, the flavor pairings and contrasts contained within each dish were wildly original.
“What grows together, goes together,” Townsend answered when asked how much taste-testing goes into these seasonal dishes. “Very little,” he added.
The menu is small and focused and can change every two to three weeks.
Long Story Short is open for dinner beginning at 5 pm Wednesday through Saturday, and starting at 4 pm on Sundays. 3017 University Ave., 619-228-9381, longstoryshort-sd.com.–Frank Sabatini Jr. has been writing about food in San Diego for over 35 years. He launched his own food blog during the pandemic, called, “The Hash Star,” which you can follow at thehashstar.com. He can be reached at [email protected].
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