All ‘bitches’ welcome

Restaurant Review

Frank Sabatini Jr.

I’m in love with a bitch.

She resides on Fifth Avenue in Hillcrest, cooks some mean pancakes and breakfast sandwiches, and is an advocate of fun, freedom and workplace diversity.

It isn’t a person, but rather one of the sassiest breakfast joints to descend on San Diego.

I was initially skeptical about Breakfast Bitch in the weeks leading up to its opening on San Diego Pride weekend in July. Was this some politically incorrect, derogatory concept targeting the LGBTQ community — or African American women? Would it operate on the premise of meanness and cattiness?

The answer is no, no and no.

Consider it a term of endearment when your party walks in and a staffer greets you with the words, “Hey bitches.” The salutation invariably comes with an embracing smile, particularly if it’s from the ultra-friendly gay face of the restaurant, Dallas Sawyer, who doubles as a host and server.

“Most of our front-house staff are gay. And our two chefs are African American women,” said Tracii Hutsona, who owns and operates the retro-style eatery with her husband Derrell Hutsona.

The couple also runs a luxury-lifestyle business in Los Angeles. And Derrell is a former college and NFL football player who served as a running back for the Cincinnati Bengals. Both often work the frontlines of the restaurant — and they’re among the nicest, most socially polished people you’ll ever meet.

A friend and I visited on a Monday morning. By 10:30 a.m. customers were queued up in the order line, which runs along an open kitchen. Nearly every table became occupied. The vibe was festive and upbeat, more of what you’d expect to find on weekends.

The chefs were also present: Chanel Williams and Miqua King, both of whom are currently enrolled in the culinary program at Mesa College. We would soon experience their knack for balancing textures and flavors through several dishes were ordered.

As my friend effused about the Kona-style coffee sourced locally from Make Good Coffee Co., an order of “scary pancakes” arrived. They’re from a separate pancake menu that changes monthly.

“I don’t like pancakes the size of throw rugs. And these are reasonably sized,” my friend pointed out as we reveled also in their thinness, which was similar to Swedish-style pancakes. Best of all, they weren’t overly sweet, and we loved the occasional tinges of saltiness stemming from the pepita seeds and butter. For good reason, syrup isn’t served with them, and we didn’t want it anyhow.

The menu’s two primary categories are “main bitch” and “skinny bitch.” We ordered a little from both.

The latter offers a substantial avocado toast on brioche with an egg cooked to your liking. We chose sunny-side, which was cooked perfectly and oozed seductively over the fresh guacamole, shredded Parmesan cheese, and spring-mix lettuces (from Specialty Produce). My friend detected onions in the guac, which she wasn’t nuts about. I noticed once she pointed them out but didn’t mind.

All items from the “main bitch” section involve jumbo croissant sandwiches. They’re a notch higher in price than your everyday breakfast sandwich, but for good reason.

The “bougie” is the most expensive ($16.75). It’s stuffed with a payload of shredded Atlantic lobster meat, along with a poached egg and fresh spinach. The ingredients are brilliantly tied together with cilantro-lime sauce the chefs recently introduced in lieu of Hollandaise. But you can opt for either — or both as we did, with the lemony Hollandaise served on the side.

If you’re considering ordering cheesy hash browns, turkey bacon, or eggs a la carte, look no further than the “all American.” For $13.80, you end up with all of those items stuffed into a croissant, along with multi-colored sautéed bell peppers. It tasted as pretty as it looked.

Other top sellers include the battered and grilled “Frenchy” croissant filled with fresh fruit, strawberry coulis and cream cheese. For beef lovers, there’s the “New Yorker” croissant featuring strip steak with grilled onions and sweet peppers

Vegans will have nothing to bitch about when delving into pancakes made with vanilla protein powder; a “fruity bitch” salad served in a pineapple boat; and the “green bitch” smoothie that blends together spinach, apples, bananas, pineapples and kombucha. A few other vegan options exist as well.

Despite its playful shtick and retro décor, the atmosphere at Breakfast Bitch doesn’t feel forced or overplayed. My inner prankster, however, imagines bringing out-of-town company here, and ushering them inside while somehow blocking their view of the signage above the entrance — if only to see the looks on their faces when receiving the “bitch” greeting — and the affable “bye bitches” farewell as we’re exiting.

Breakfast Bitch

3825 Fifth Ave. (Hillcrest)

877-732-4824

eatbreakfastbitch.com

Prices: “Skinny bitch” dishes, $7.95 to $9.95

Pancakes (customized and seasonal presentations)

start at $7.95; “main bitch” items, $8.50 to $15.75

—Frank Sabatini Jr. is the author of ‘Secret San Diego’ (ECW Press), and began his local writing career more than two decades ago as a staffer for the former San Diego Tribune. You can reach him at [email protected].